Feature Wine Story

Rose is Born Again!

It is evident that rose is making a comeback amongst wine lists and wine shops across the globe. At one point during the 50s and 60s, rose was the choice of wine for consumers. Rose has kept its presence and demand in the European markets, but began losing its popularity in the United States when one of the wine maker’s at the Sutter Home winery in California came across a unique problem. During the mid 70’s, there was an abundance of red grapes and very scarce white grapes, which diverted winemaker’s to produce white wine from red grapes. The problem that had occurred at the Sutter Home winery was the fermentation for white wine from the Zinfandel grape was getting ‘stuck’. For some reason, the yeast was dying off before all the sugar was converted into alcohol. This reaction resulted in a sweeter pink wine that was later put on the market for sale.

The white zinfandel craze spread like wild fire throughout the U.S., and many wineries began introducing their versions. The supple and sweet flavors of white zinfandel were pleasant, and the wine was instantly accepted as a premier choice.

This phenomenon hurt the sales of dry rose and sales began to steadily decline. Through out the next couple of decades, as wine became the trend amongst beverages, consumers became more familiar with styles and characteristics. The media and various wine publications made a tremendous impact on consumers, educating and informing them on the wonderful world of wine.

There is no secret to the fact that the balance of rose wine has characteristics and attributes that makes it such a versatile wine for any occasion. In my opinion, I could have rose any day of the week and still be intrigued and interested in it. Rose gives you the best of both worlds while obtaining its own identity. Its delicate structure gives off pleasant fruit and floral aromas while obtaining a combination of soft and crisp flavors of berries and hints of zest.

There is a misconception of how rose is produced, but there are several approaches that are practiced amongst oenologists around the world. The first method of producing rose wine is called ‘skin contact’. Red grapes are crushed into a vat where the skins are left in for a short period of time, roughly 2 or 3 days. The grapes are then pressed again and the skins are removed. Typically, the skins are left in for the production of red where the wine obtains all of its berry flavors and tannins. Depending on the color and flavor the winemaker is trying to achieve is how long the skins are left in. The second method of producing rose is called Saignee, which basically means bleeding of the vats. This method can be used when red wine production is in progress, some of the juice is removed from the vat at an early stage. This process does 2 things: one is that it intensifies the red wine and second is, it produces rose wine from the bleeding right from the same vat. Another method that is thought and believed by many, which is the blending of both red and white wine to produce rose is uncommon and rarely used amongst professionals.

Usually the release of current vintage roses are a sign that spring is here. Roses are ideal for cool but yet warm weather that can be enjoyed right through summer and fall. Rose is probably one of the few wines that can be enjoyed with practically with just about anything and everything. It has just enough components to be enjoyed with meats, poultry, pork, seafood and great sauces. And of course those moments, where you just want to kick back and have a glass of wine on your balcony.

Some of the most reputable regions of the world that produce exceptional rose wines are, France, Spain, Italy, and in my opinion and other wine experts, Greece. Unlike other countries, almost every region of Greece produces amazing rose wines from their local grape varieties. The grapes that are commonly used for roses in Greece are Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Xynomavro from Naoussa, and Kotsifali from Crete. These three grapes produce aromatic and flavorful roses that carry a combination of crisp and berry flavors from start to finish. If there is ever a chance that you see a rose selection from Greece on a wine list, I highly recommend that you try it.

Below are some of my rose recommendations that have just been released that deserve a chance in your glass that would retail under $20 a bottle.

2008 Palivou ‘VissinoKipos’ Rose: produced from 85% Agiorgitiko and 15% Syrah, this rose has about 12 hours skin contact. The color resembles vissino and boasts flavors of strawberry and some dry cranberries. Balanced with a long finish.

2008 Gaia 14 – 18 Rose: produced from 100% Agiorgitiko, this selection has between 14 to 18 hours skin contact. This rose is light and refreshing with subtle fruit flavors and a citrusy finish.

2008 Kir Yianni Akakies Rose: produced from 100% Xynomavro, this is the only A.O.C. (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) Rose. Loaded with aromas of strawberries and lemon trees, this rose has eloquent flavors of fruit.

2008 Lyrarakis Idyll Rose: produced from a blend of Kotsifali and Syrah. This selection has an intense color with violet reflections. Great berry aromas with precise balance and refreshing flavors.

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